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Author: BBailie

People in Huts

People in Huts

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New Zealand is chock-full of hiking trails, the longest being the Te Araroa stretching from the northern tip of the North Island to the southern tip of the South Island for a total of 1,864 miles. Jim and I didn’t have the 4-6 months it takes to complete the Te Araroa, so we settled for two nights on the Abel Tasman Track. This track is one of New Zealand’s “Great Walks” which means the walking path is maintained to a high standard. It also means that it is popular and often crowded.

The Abel Tasman Track, a 37 miles (60 km) trail, meanders on beaches and over coastal mountains. Although it is normally a 3-5 day hike, we could only get reservations at the northernmost hut, the Whariwharangi Hut, where we stayed two nights. As expected, the 20 beds in the hut were filled both nights. In most New Zealand huts, you sleep sardine-style, all in a row, right next to each other, on a long, raised plywood bed. Yet, Jim and I arrived early the first night so we were able to snag a rare accommodation – a private room with only one bunk bed. This didn’t mean that we had total privacy since the hut was a remodeled cabin from the 1800s and our room opened up onto the kitchen, the only space for socializing in huts.

This finally brings me to “people we meet”.  On both nights, the hikers in the hut fell into two camps – the older (a.k.a. our age) locals who adore being in the NZ wilderness and the younger (a.k.a. fitter) people from around the world who have come to NZ to explore, and for some, work.

New Zealand has a program where young people from ages 18 to 30 can apply for work visas lasting up to a year. They mainly work picking fruit and vegetables on New Zealand’s many farms or in the hospitality/tourism businesses, one of NZ’s economic mainstays. Workers are allowed to find work that suits them and travel between work stints. 

That’s Jim !!!

On our second night, I fell into conversation with three young women from Germany, Hanna, Lea, and Jule. They were quieter than the other world travelers so I gravitated to them, being a former quiet and shy person myself. Yet these gals were nothing like I was at their age. When I was 18, I was doing what my parents and society expected of me. These young women were truly exploring.

After high school (or gymnasium), at 18, Hanna, Lea, and Jule decided to take a year off before entering university and the world of work. They had spent the previous months at various farms picking fruit noting that having your hands over your head all day only hurts the first day. This alone proves they are much younger than me. They also navigated finding jobs, lodging, and transportation. In Germany, they relied on the public transportation system found in most European cities and towns so they weren’t accustomed to driving. Yet, in New Zealand, they managed to pay for and purchase a van, figure out New Zealand’s “rego” and “wof” requirements for vehicles, and most impressive of all, drive on New Zealand’s fast-paced roads. What probably helped them through these experiences was their accurate impression of New Zealanders in general – kind, easy-going, and helpful – which they are.

I asked Hanna, Lea, and Jule what they learned from their experiences in New Zealand. I thought they would say something profound and soul-bearing. Instead, they answered that they had learned the ropes of food shopping, cooking, cleaning, doing laundry, and driving. I am sure they did learn those critical life skills but I suspect their growth was deeper. When I asked to take their photo before everyone left in the morning, I asked them for two poses. The first one was the way they came into the country a year ago and the second was the way they are leaving. Their first photo shows three polite, yet separate and reserved young gals. The second shows relaxed, comfortable, and very connected young women. Subtle, but significant. I wish all three women more exploration and growth.

And here’s a secret – I wish that for myself too – even as an older woman.

Our Swiss Escape

Our Swiss Escape

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Fully vaccinated. Masks in place. When our Swiss housesit friends asked us to care for their three cats in August 2021, we didn’t hesitate.

To extend our time there, we did a short five-day bike trip before the housesit started. To stay as safe as we could, we headed for a more remote area of the country for our bike ride. The Graubünden canton borders Italy where the Romansch language, which dates from the 11th century, is still spoken.

Switzerland is a country best appreciated visually so we’ll stick with photos and hopefully, only a few words.

Our bike route. We rode the orange parts and took the train on the hilly, dangerous parts in green.
Even from our least expensive room, the view is spectacular.
Shaggy, cute and close enough to touch.
Why we love Swiss trains! Places for bikes (notice the hooks overhead), clean, and on time.
Switzerland is a Rubik’s cube of valleys connected by trains and dotted with small villages.
So much of the land is used for raising cows for beef and milk or growing hay to feed the cows. The women (it’s usually the women) who rake the fields are fit and buff.
When we get riding, sometimes it’s a quiet road meandering through the hills.
Or down a wooded trail.
Or over a bridge – that’s probably hundreds of years old.
Sometimes we maneuver through a construction zone.
Always slowing down when we bike through old (hundreds of years) villages.
Sometimes we climb passes in freezing weather. There is snow behind that mist.
But it’s always worth the effort.
Even from inside our room, the views inspire!
And the breakfasts delight!
Even in the middle of nowhere, the convenience store is full of perfect fruit and veggies.
On this section of the railroad, the trains enter a mountainside at one level, circle around INSIDE the mountain, and exit at a higher level. You gotta love that Swiss engineering!
Higher in the Alps, we were constantly treated to incredible views.
Or incredible people like Bakul who was riding his monster of a bike – non-electric, and fully-loaded – around Switzerland. We loved his infectious positive energy.
The buildings were old. Built in 1689!!
But the ruins were older!! The 13th Century!
We had our pictures taken. Notice who is carrying more gear. Jim…. gentleman that he is.
Cows are everywhere! There have to be… since there are over 450 types of cheese in Switzerland. And then there’s the milk for the Swiss chocolate!
Frisky goats!! You have to have some goat cheese, too.
And of course, places to buy raw milk from a machine 24 hours a day!!
We poked around odd places.
And discovered well-designed “little free libraries” in the middle of the forest.
And tiny cars!!
We tried other modes of transportation.
And sometimes we walked.
We realized there are more bike routes and hiking paths in Switzerland than you could do in a lifetime.
We marveled at the natural beauty.
And the history.
And knew we’d be back.
On the return train to Interlaken, the bike symbol on the carriage window let us know we were in the right train car and the lake let us know ……
We were right where we belong!

Ketchum, Idaho – Our Covid Bubble

Ketchum, Idaho – Our Covid Bubble

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After spending 3 months in New Zealand during the initial lock-down stages of Covid, Jim and I were a little hesitant to come back to the U.S.

New Zealand is the country that banned assault weapons within a month of a rare mass shooting in 2019. The U.S. has a mass shooting almost every day of the year.

New Zealand closed its borders before they had even one death from Covid. Since then, 26 people in New Zealand have died from the disease. In the U.S., Covid deaths are currently over 600,000.

    Yet our good luck overcame our fear. A six-month housesit in Ketchum, Idaho turned into 11 months and we are not finished yet. Neither of us was familiar with Idaho or Ketchum, known for its sunny weather and outstanding skiing.

    Since July 2020, we’ve followed the habits of the locals – which is basically….. Get Outside. In the summer and fall, we hiked and biked. In the winter, we downhill skied, cross-country skied, and snowshoed. It’s been glorious. Jim tried fly-fishing in Silver Creek, a nearby world-class trout stream. I tried making pottery, with emphasis on the “tried”. We even got a permit to cut down our own Christmas tree in the Sawtooth National Forest.

    • That’s my Jim!

    We are also caring for two adorable dogs and two “cute as” (a NZ term) cats. They bring structure, joy, and amusement to our days. When you are with your spouse 24/7, it’s important to have other beings in your life – even the four-legged kind.

    Ketchum has been the perfect re-entry place for us. It’s super easy to stay socially distant since there are only 1,800 residents in town (plus a bunch of tourists). It is true community bolstered by higher than average education and wealth. But the most important trait of the people we’ve met in Ketchum, which is reflected in the town motto, hangs over the main street in huge letters. The motto, shared with New Zealand, is simply………. Be Kind. That’s it….Just……Be Kind.

    Back in the good ‘ol US of A

    Back in the good ‘ol US of A

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    In the back of my mind, I was thinking “Are we crazy? Leaving the safe bubble of New Zealand during the Covid-19 pandemic to return the United States?”

    New Zealand – the country that extended all visitor visas just because it was a kind thing to do – the country that went from Level 4 lockdown to Level 1 (border restrictions only) in 10 ½ weeks and 22 deaths – the country where two lovely families invited us into their homes and their hearts during the process. 

    When the pandemic hit, housesitting opportunities around the world instantly dried up. If people were traveling, it was only for a week or so. Still, I scoured the housesitting websites looking for that rare gem. Then I found it – 4-8 months in Ketchum/Sun Valley, Idaho. We applied for the housesit on a Monday evening. That Thursday, I was on a plane back to the United States. Jim would follow later.

    The Sun Valley area is famous for its fly fishing, downhill skiing, cross country skiing, hiking, road biking, mountain biking. Get the idea? Our kind of town. As I wait for Jim to arrive, I have been hiking the White Cloud region. Distance from the housesit – a 2-minute walk! All of these photos are taken on my hikes there or the mile-long walk into town.

    This area is also known for its famous residents. Ex-Secretary of State John Kerry, movie actors like Arnold Schwarzenegger and Bruce Willis, and really rich people like Mark Zuckerberg and Warren Buffet have all owned property here. Right now, the most expensive home for sale in this area is $22,000,000 US. It sounds like a lot of money but you do get 15,789 sq. feet (1.466 sq. meters for our European friends). To be fair though, the median price of a home Sun Valley is $758,300, not too different from Seattle, WA, where we are from.

    The closest big box stores are one hour away so you won’t find any blue-light specials here. What you’ll find, though, is the best of everything else. In a town of roughly 3,000 souls, you’ll find excellent restaurants, classical music festivals, world-class art galleries, and a 25,000-square-foot performing arts center. For the stargazers, the Central Idaho Dark Sky Reserve is just outside of town. Who needs tube socks anyway?

    For the moment, (during this dang pandemic), most large events are not happening in Ketchum, but that’s alright. There are plenty of trails and mountains to explore. Our temporary home is very comfortable and our temporary dogs and cats are super friendly. We are safe, healthy, and thankful and we hope you are too.

    The Parrot Place

    The Parrot Place

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    Despite our desire to do so, we can’t just bike or hike every day. So, on a recent housesit in Kerikeri, New Zealand, we went to The Parrot Place. In a subtropical garden setting, The Parrot Place displays and breeds parrots from New Zealand and other countries.

    Observing the parrots in their cages was fun but going into the two cages with free-flying parrots was super fun! Multiple parrots would land on us clamoring for the nuts and seeds we had purchased at the ticket office. I even got my teeth pecked at by one colorful rainbow lorrie. Or maybe it was a rosella?

    Larger parrots, like macaws, who can live up to 50 years, are incredibly agile. We watched one macaw hold a walnut in one claw, open it with its beak and other claw, and then eat the pieces bit by bit, all while holding onto the cage wires with its beak and claws.

    I never really associated parrots with New Zealand but we’ve learned about the many types here – native and introduced. Even in our current area, a mix of forest and farmland, I have seen the orange, yellow, red and green underbellies of the lorrie (or maybe it’s the rosella). So whether we have been hiking, biking or paying to see the parrots up close, it’s all good.

      Sheltering in Place

      Sheltering in Place

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      Three weeks ago, we were enjoying our housesit in Kerikeri, New Zealand, aware of the coronavirus but oblivious to how quickly it would transform the world. As the news intensified, our options decreased. Our New Zealand housesits cancelled since they were flying overseas. Kiwis who were traveling locally called off their plans. One after another, airline companies disappeared.

      Returning to Seattle didn’t look good anyway. The nursing home with the first case of the virus in the U.S. is one mile from our home. But that didn’t matter anyway since our home is in the rental market.

      Hunkering down in place seemed like the best option. We had stayed for a week at Kauri Cottage, a holiday rental. When we left, the owners, Heather and Arthur, who live in a house next door, invited us back if we needed a place to stay. Grateful, we returned and unpacked for the duration – whatever that means – until the flights start again or until borders open or until other places feel safe.

      The day after our decision, New Zealand announced a month-long nationwide shelter-in-place. The entire country had 2 days to get to where they wanted to be and stock up. Grocery stores and pharmacies will remain open but most other businesses will close.

      Yet we’ve landed in a great place. Our hosts/landlords, Heather and Arthur, are kind, interesting and like most Kiwis, incredibly hard-working. They own 5 acres full of pasture for sheep, hen runs for 75 chickens, and other necessities of farm life – barns, machinery, oodles of firewood, gardens, and fruit trees (even bananas!). We have privacy in our cottage yet we also get to see and talk with Heather and Arthur daily – from a distance, of course.

      Our cottage is large enough to spread out in but small enough to keep clean and tidy easily. We have a separate bedroom, a full kitchen, a washing machine, and most importantly, light. Every space has windows on two or three sides. Plus, we can walk around outside and be in nature. We feed the chickens our scraps, work on our bikes, and pick grapes. I even do my exercise and yoga outside on the grass. Even hanging our laundry outside to dry, like most Kiwis do, is a pleasure.

      Jim and I are used to being together 24/7 so we are doing well. We are using this time to catch-up and move forward with a bit of exercise and nature to keep us sane.

      Wherever you are, I hope you are healthy, safe and experiencing kindness.

        Monteverde Cloud Forest

        Monteverde Cloud Forest

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        Jim and I ended our time in Costa Rica in the cloud forests of the Monteverde area. At an elevation of 4,662 feet, it’s the perfect location at the Continental Divide where the moist, cool air of the Caribbean Sea meets the warm, dry air of the Pacific Ocean. The moisture condenses and blankets the forests in water creating 100% humidity. Even when it isn’t raining, the mountaintops are foggy and water drips from the trees.

        Parts of the Santa Elena Reserve have been logged as recently as 40 years ago. Despite this, conditions allow the plants to grow incredibly fast. Trees compete for light creating 3-year-old trees as tall as 60 feet. The forest is incredibly dense but the virgin parts of the reserve, those that have never been logged, feel primordial. It feels like every tree and plant in the forest is intertwined with everything else making the forest one large organism.

        Monteverde is also famous for zip lining. Of the 4 adventure parks there, we chose 100% Aventura which has the longest zip line in Costa Rica – almost one mile long! Jim even did the Mega Tarzan Swing. It swings to a height of 148 feet! Watch the video! That’s my Jim up there!

        I may not be brave enough to jump off a platform, but I did the two Superman ziplines (face down, arms out). One was just under 2,000 feet long and the other was 4,921 feet long – just less than a mile!

        Plus, I enjoyed a half day of horseback riding through the green mountains of Monteverde. As they say in Costa Rica, Pura Vida! Pure Life!

        A Walk on the Wild Side

        A Walk on the Wild Side

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        With two weeks to fill between housesits, Jim and I headed for Costa Rica, the land of Pura Vida – pure life. I visited a tiny part of the country 13 years ago but now we can explore together.

        Costa Rica is small enough that from the mountains you can see both the east coast – Caribbean Sea – and the west coast – the Atlantic Ocean. Most tourists head for the “discovered” west coast where homes prices easily reach over $1 million. We start with “authentic” east coast. With a large Afro-Caribbean population, electricity did not reach this area until 1976.

        With the 4-block town of Cahuita as our base for 4 days, we ventured to the Cahuita National Park. It is a dense swampy forest that spills out onto the beach. Birds and animals are plentiful but hard to spot.

        Enter Carlos, a lifelong resident of the Cahuita. He is an official park guide who has an abundance of local knowledge and fabulous eyesight. For two hours, we walked the park’s only trail with him. Carlos was able to effortlessly spot animals which were difficult for us to see even with the aid of his laser pointer.

        Carlos also told us about the medicinal properties of plants and other creatures of the forest. I could cure my asthma with the termites. Jim could help his knees by applying a paste made from certain plant. And everyone could improve their health by consuming juice from the noni plant – mother of all natural medicines.

        We had planned to walk the entire 5 miles of the trail but in the 2 hours we spent with Carlos, we only covered 1 mile. During that time, with Carlos’s help, we saw a caiman (a type of alligator), capuchin monkeys, bats, sloths, turtles and iguanas. After parting with Carlos, we were only able to see a baby raccoon, and he was right in the middle of the path – not too hard to spot. So, the next time you take a walk on the wild side, get a local guide. You will definitely see more.

        Biking in Paradise

        Biking in Paradise

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        Cowboy Paradise!

        It has a certain allure about it.

        That is where Jim and I were headed when we biked the West Coast Wilderness Trail, one of New Zealand’s 22 Great Rides. The 22 trails differ in difficulty and scenery but they all have a few things in common – off-road when possible, accommodations and food along the way, and plenty of info and support services.

        The West Coast Wilderness Trail is on the west (a.k.a. wet) coast of the South Island of NZ. Normally a 4-day ride, it hugs the coastal highway on the first and last day. We were more interested in the middle two days. The trail leaves the coast and quickly heads uphill through wetlands, into a dense rainforest, past glacial rivers and lakes, and back down again. For us, these two days were the fun part!

        The track – New Zealand speak for trail – was originally created by miners during the West Coast Gold Rush in the 1860s. Now, tourism supports the constant need for repairing the ruts and wash-outs on the trail. No doubt, since the area gets roughly 118” of rain annually.

        Jim and I avoided the rain but not the effort, going uphill for the entire first day. The grade wasn’t too steep and it gave us a chance to enjoy the scenery.

        Our destination, Cowboy Paradise, is the culmination of one man’s dream. It is a dirt “street” in the middle of a forest that is straight out of the American Wild West, complete with saloon/restaurant with swinging doors and a shooting gallery. Considering there were only 4 guests including Jim and myself, it seems like the bad guys had already run everyone else out of town

        After a good night’s sleep, we were rewarded with a day of downhill riding. Now this part WAS paradise! After careening (ok, maybe moderately maneuvering) down the forested trail, the vista opened up onto Arahura River valley.

        We were immersed in sunshine and nature until we hit the town of Hokitika on the Tasman Sea, riding a total of 72 km over the two days. We were staying in Hokitika for the night, so Jim, ever the gentleman, rode another 28 km to bring the car back so we could continue our journey south in the morning. And while we may have skipped the flat half of the 132-km trail, we did go to Paradise and back!

        Style ….. and depth

        Style ….. and depth

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        What do you talk about with your hair stylist? I like to talk about real stuff – beyond the weather or the traffic. That’s why Kirsten Arkley was the perfect stylist for me. It’s been a while since I’ve seen her, but I remember talking about subjects like…….you are a combination of the people you hang out with……. passion and enthusiasm are necessary ingredients in life and…………… life as a single parent can be an adventure.

        When I met her, Kirsten was raising her daughter to be like her – brave, resourceful and positive. Kirsten shared that she bought a boat that she and her daughter were living aboard part-time. She said she craved the peacefulness the boat’s location gave her and that her daughter loved it too. What a gift Kirsten is giving to herself and her daughter! And did I mention, I loved my highlights!

        If you are ever in Victoria, BC, Canada, drop by Felice Salon and say hi to Kirsten.

        What’s up with Blenheim?

        What’s up with Blenheim?

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        Blenheim Palace in the UK? Where Winston Churchill was born?

        No, Blenheim, New Zealand – wine capital of NZ, known for its Sauvignon Blanc. This will be our second month-long housesit for the same family. Jim and I have never lived in smaller towns like this, with a population of 30,000, yet our time there has helped us appreciate small town living.

        From the small commuter plane, the neat rows of vineyards, 2,400 acres of them, are captivating. The grapes compete for space with new housing developments on the edges of town. I also notice there are practically no cars on the road but that makes sense. It is Boxing Day, the day after Christmas and businesses (mainly locally owned) won’t be open until Dec 27, or January 2nd or maybe even Monday, January 7th. It’s a work-life balance thing for the Kiwis.

        A noir is red wine and a blanc is white wine. This is what Jim and I collectively know about wine. But we don’t come to Blenheim for its oenophilic delights. We come because of Cooper and Queenie.

        Cooper is a 2-year old labradoodle and Queenie is a cat – cats are ageless. They come with a delightful house in Blenheim owned by an energetic and gracious family. The housesit also comes with neighbors on either side, who invite us to holiday meals and parties, and let us swim in their pool. The neighbors come from farming backgrounds and know the value of family and community. We like it.

        Now, this is a small town experience. You want to pick up some friends at the airport. Although the airport is “out of town”, if you wait until you hear the arriving plane overhead before getting in the car, you can make it to the airport with time to spare. Plus, you can swing into a u-pick cherry orchard on the way back to the house And their cherries are first rate!

        Our main housesitting task is to keep the animals happy. For Cooper, that means a walk along the river. Less than a mile from the house, the Taylor River Reserve meanders from town to the hills beyond. Around 5:30 pm, the walking paths on both sides of the river are full of happy dogs and their owners – all off-leash, the dogs, that is. The dogs do what dogs do. Establish a relationship and run like crazy. The dog owners do something similar. Establish a relationship and pick up poo. Everyone has a good time.  

        Our housesit family now has chickens in the expansive backyard. I think it is mandatory in New Zealand to raise chickens at some point in your life and this is their time. Having been raised in the U.S., we have never raised chickens, but it is easy to learn. You provide them with food and water and they provide you with eggs.

        • My True Calling

        The best part is when the eggs are still warm. It gives me a slightly maternal feeling. But that feeling goes away quickly when I realize how “academically challenged” chickens are. If I spill water while filling their dish, they all clamor for the spilled, now muddy, water rather than drink the cool, clean water from the dish. But who am I to say anything. I can’t lay even one egg.  

        When we aren’t dog walking and egg collecting, Jim and I like to ride bikes. We ride out of town which means riding 10 minutes in any direction. This gives us the opportunity to see “cool things” like pigs. In fact, we see actual pigs. But what we like best is what we DON’T see – cars. It’s so lovely.

        In the mornings and after work, you’ll find many locals climbing the slopes of Wither Hills. This range rises to an elevation of 1,200′ just on the edge of town and is shared with grazing sheep and cattle. During the day, it is blazing hot and if anything caught on fire, you’d be a goner. Signs warn the walkers, runners, and mountain bikers that – The steeper the hill, the faster the fire travels – and equally scary – You cannot outrun a fire.

        Putting all that aside, the hills are fabulous for walks of ½ hour to 3 hours. At the top, the land stretches as far as you can see without a single manmade sight. The grazing stock only adds to the charm. When you come upon the sheep, they shuttle off. But the cattle, now, they hold their own – usually next to the water trough. No messing with the cattle.

        It’s not all fun and games while housesitting in Blenheim. Every so often, we work in the garden, harvesting the carrots, tomatoes and, zucchini that will become our salad. The juicy lemons grow faster than we can use them. There is plenty growing so we freeze tomatoes for the family to enjoy in the winter.

        Blenheim….. we are convinced of your charms.